
Josi and I are in Lysekil for a long weekend. She’s doing her rescue diver course, while I’m working remotely and photographing the construction of a new wind turbine. It’s early October. Blue skies, sunshine and plenty of wind. Perfect Bohuslän weather. On the way back home, we stop for coffee at Nordens Ark, a wildlife park I’ve visited many times with Josi and her brother Benji. This time, though, we’re not here for the animals. We’re here to look at the rock carvings at Åbyhällen.
I have a complicated history with rock carvings. As a child, my mum and my school dragged me here, as well as to the much larger sites around Tanumshede. I remember looking at the carvings and thinking: boats, people, animals. What’s the big deal? So when my mum suggested Josi and I visit Åbyhällen, I was childishly rolling my eyes. Luckily, Josi has a talent for persuading me to go wandering around in nature looking at stuff. And this time, I looked properly. More importantly, I read the information board, which revealed some bizarre and fascinating stuff.

The carvings were made over a thousand years during the Bronze Age. Around 3,000 years ago, the sea was about 15 metres higher than today, so this rock was once right on the shoreline. Standing there, you get to imagine waves crashing over the lower part of the carving. There are images of boats, wolves, a ram, weapons and a row of men wearing pointed ceremonial hats. Similar hats have been found in Germany and France, suggesting that the figures may represent religious leaders.
OK, I think. That’s interesting. People travelled and traded. Goods, services and ideas moved around. But then things get stranger. One boat contains a couple embracing, interpreted as a Hieros Gamos, a holy wedding between a fertility god and goddess. Elsewhere, a man appears to be mating with a mare. Apparently, the goddess has transformed herself into a horse. Hmm…

As a child, I saw random scratches in a rock. Sure, we giggled at the penis shapes, but we did not understand what we were looking at or why archaeologists and researchers thought it mattered. And who bothered reading information panels? Oh well. Now I see clues to an entirely different world. A world of people thinking about fertility, death, mythology, rituals, etc. These rock carvings strike a deep chord within me. They are about essential, human stuff.
The questions of who, when, what, where and how are actively being explored by people doing PhDs on this. But the big question is perhaps why. I stand there for a while, wondering what the people who carved these images actually had in mind. Were they recording important events? Telling stories? Marking a sacred place? Trying to make sense of a world they couldn’t control?

I turn to Josi. “What do you think they were doing?” She looks at the carvings for a moment. “Maybe they were just bored.” I laugh. Then she points down at the wooden railing of the platform we’re standing on. Someone has carved a few completely meaningless shapes into it. “Like that.”
And there it is. Three thousand years, Bronze Age religion, fertility rituals, and elaborate theories about the meaning of ancient symbols, brought neatly back down to earth. Perhaps these people were sometimes just bored and had a rock handy.









