The rock carvings at Åbyhällen

Rock carvings at Åbyhällen 1

Josi and I are in Lysekil for a long weekend. She’s doing her rescue diver course, while I’m working remotely and photographing the construction of a new wind turbine. It’s early October. Blue skies, sunshine and plenty of wind. Perfect Bohuslän weather. On the way back home, we stop for coffee at Nordens Ark, a wildlife park I’ve visited many times with Josi and her brother Benji. This time, though, we’re not here for the animals. We’re here to look at the rock carvings at Åbyhällen.

I have a complicated history with rock carvings. As a child, my mum and my school dragged me here, as well as to the much larger sites around Tanumshede. I remember looking at the carvings and thinking: boats, people, animals. What’s the big deal? So when my mum suggested Josi and I visit Åbyhällen, I was childishly rolling my eyes. Luckily, Josi has a talent for persuading me to go wandering around in nature looking at stuff. And this time, I looked properly. More importantly, I read the information board, which revealed some bizarre and fascinating stuff.

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The carvings were made over a thousand years during the Bronze Age. Around 3,000 years ago, the sea was about 15 metres higher than today, so this rock was once right on the shoreline. Standing there, you get to imagine waves crashing over the lower part of the carving. There are images of boats, wolves, a ram, weapons and a row of men wearing pointed ceremonial hats. Similar hats have been found in Germany and France, suggesting that the figures may represent religious leaders.

OK, I think. That’s interesting. People travelled and traded. Goods, services and ideas moved around. But then things get stranger. One boat contains a couple embracing, interpreted as a Hieros Gamos, a holy wedding between a fertility god and goddess. Elsewhere, a man appears to be mating with a mare. Apparently, the goddess has transformed herself into a horse. Hmm…

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As a child, I saw random scratches in a rock. Sure, we giggled at the penis shapes, but we did not understand what we were looking at or why archaeologists and researchers thought it mattered. And who bothered reading information panels? Oh well. Now I see clues to an entirely different world. A world of people thinking about fertility, death, mythology, rituals, etc. These rock carvings strike a deep chord within me. They are about essential, human stuff.

The questions of who, when, what, where and how are actively being explored by people doing PhDs on this. But the big question is perhaps why. I stand there for a while, wondering what the people who carved these images actually had in mind. Were they recording important events? Telling stories? Marking a sacred place? Trying to make sense of a world they couldn’t control?

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I turn to Josi. “What do you think they were doing?” She looks at the carvings for a moment. “Maybe they were just bored.” I laugh. Then she points down at the wooden railing of the platform we’re standing on. Someone has carved a few completely meaningless shapes into it. “Like that.”

And there it is. Three thousand years, Bronze Age religion, fertility rituals, and elaborate theories about the meaning of ancient symbols, brought neatly back down to earth. Perhaps these people were sometimes just bored and had a rock handy.

The people I met in Baldur’s Gate

Every now and then, a video game comes along that pulls me in a little deeper. I first encountered the Baldur’s Gate series in 1999, when I was 15 years old. I still remember meeting Khalid and Jaheira at the Friendly Arm Inn, venturing forth onto the Sword Coast, with places to explore, monsters to fight and a whole fantasy world to lose myself in. I thought it was amazing.

So when I started playing the new Baldur’s Gate III, more than 25 years after I first played the original, I knew I was going to be in for a treat. What I didn’t expect was quite how much of my life it would occupy. And I loved it. Not just playing it, but thinking about it. There were mornings when I woke up already pondering what I was going to do that evening. A quest I hadn’t finished. A conversation I needed to have. A decision I wasn’t sure about. A character whose reaction I was worried about.

That last bit is what really surprised me. Because Baldur’s Gate III is, well, a video game. You create a character, explore a fantasy world, fight monsters, collect magical items, gain experience and complete quests. The combat is based on Dungeons & Dragons, with dice rolls, spells, abilities and turn-based battles. But none of that mattered to me. The “people” did.

Larian Studios, the team who made the game, created an enormous fantasy world, but populated it with characters who feel much less like game mechanics and much more like people you happen to have met. My character was Elaris, an elven ranger. I recruited lots of characters along the way, but my regular party was Shadowheart, Gale and Karlach. I got to know them.

Shadowheart was dealing with faith, memory and identity. Gale was wrestling with ambition, pride and Mystra. Karlach was facing the terrifying possibility that the life she had escaped Hell to enjoy might be painfully short. These aren’t simply backstories that you read in a character menu. Their problems emerge gradually through conversations, quests and choices. You talk to them at camp. They comment on what you have done. They disagree with you. They reveal things. They change. And eventually, you care.

I found myself checking in on them like a good ol’ Tamagotchi. How are they doing? What are they thinking? Do they agree with what I’m about to do? Have I upset them? Should I really be doing this? And then there is romance. Elaris romanced Shadowheart from beginning to end, and this changed the game for me. Suddenly, her opinions carried even more weight. A difficult decision wasn’t simply about what Elaris thought was right. Elaris, or, well, I, was also wondering what Shadowheart would think. That is an extraordinary achievement in game design.

At Talking Beautiful Stuff, we write about the human impulse to create. People making stuff, why, how, when, where and what it means to us when we experience it. So what did the folks at Larian actually make? They made a video game, obviously. But they also made something else.

Google tells me that more than 400 people worked on the game for more than six years. There are more than 2,000 characters, around two million words in the script and more than 174 hours of cinematic content. And 248 actors provided not just voices, but motion capture for their characters too. Their gestures, expressions and movements became part of the performances.

Larian built the stage, wrote the script, designed the sets, created the music and lighting, and assembled an extraordinary ensemble of actors. And then they invited me on stage. I wasn’t simply controlling the main character. I was playing the main character. The other actors responded to me. They remembered things. They had their own motivations. Relationships developed. Stories changed. Sometimes I made choices I regretted. Sometimes the dice made them for me.

The result felt strangely close to real life. Not because I confused the game with reality. I didn’t. But because it captured something that most games don’t. The final battle wasn’t particularly interesting to me. The ending I cared about was the closing cinematics and conversations at the party we organised at camp to celebrate our victory and, more importantly, our friendship.

There they all were. The people Elaris had met, helped, argued with, fought alongside and loved. The characters who had started as random encounters and dialogue options had somehow become the company I had kept for nearly 200 hours of gameplay. And then they went their separate ways.

Elaris and Shadowheart got their cottage by the lake. Karlach and Wyll returned to Avernus. Gale made peace with Mystra. Minsc and Boo carried on being Minsc and Boo. Jaheira and Halsin went off to do their groovy druid thing. Astarion continued his blood sucking business. Volo, presumably, continued getting himself into trouble.

Today, I closed the game. For now, at least, I’m done. Maybe I’ll return in a few years as somebody else, making different choices, joining a completely different ensemble and discovering an entirely different outcome to the game. Or maybe not.

What I’ll remember most about Baldur’s Gate III isn’t the battles, the quests or even the enormous world Larian created. It will be the people I spent all those hours with. The strange thing about a game like this is that, for all the technology and craftsmanship involved, what ultimately makes it memorable is something very old fashioned. Spending time with other people and caring about what happens to them. Except, of course, these aren’t real people. They’re people in a video game.

Congratulations, Larian. Legendary stuff.

Beautiful stuff in the forest at Kistefos

Beautiful stuff in the forest at Kistefos 1
‘Whistleblower’ by Kader Attia, 2024

What better than a road trip through Norway with a long-lost buddy, Erling? Answer: a road trip through Norway with a long-lost buddy, Erling who insists we call in at Kistefos at Jevnaker. 

Kistefos is the brain child and passion-project of investor and collector Christen Sveaas. It was established in 1996 and occupies the riverside site of his grandfather’s pulp mill that was built in 1889. The mill is now a museum dedicated to the industrial history of the machinery necessary for generating paper-quality pulp. Thanks to Christen Sveaas, there are also stylish galleries that exhibit the best of Norway’s contemporary painters, a cafe and – what joy! – a hidden-in-the-forest, pine-scented sculpture park just full of big beautiful sculpture that makes my heart sing.

First up is Kader Attia’s ‘Whistleblower.’ Compressed cobalt blue bottles are melded together in a series of unexpected cairns. They make for an arresting contrast between the natural and the man made. The title of the work refers to the sound of wind passing over the rim of an open bottle. For me, the intriguing collective evokes at once fascination and discomfort. I consider the practicalities of making each cairn. Was each one heated whole to melt the bottles into each other or was each bottle heated and added one by one? Whichever, they give out an uneasy and other-world feel. As I stand taking in this unusual scene in the forest, I expect ‘Whistleblower’s’ cairns to come to life and move, dalek-like, towards me. 

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‘Resting Arms’ by Nairy Baghramian, 2025

Nairy Baghramian’s ‘Resting Arms’ sits comfortably in its own dell. It emanates permanence and presence. There is an uncanny contrast between the bright white limbs and their brilliant stainless-steel articulations. I run my hand over the pitted surface of the marble. It feels cold, weighty and unforgiving. The whole construction says ‘I am resting and here to stay.’ 

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‘A Deadly Slumber of All Forces’ by Ida Ekblad, 2021

Down a gravelly path, I find a dazzling arrangement of outsized and abstract cardboard cut-outs. This blog has met Ida Ekblad’s work before. The title of her ‘A Deadly Slumber of All Forces’ implies astrophysics is in play. I would be tempted to rename it as ‘A stage-set for an amateur production of Star Wars meets what is swept up after a child’s birthday party.’ Here is what Ida herself says: ‘Although it could be old mouldy memories or references, I search for a “futurism” of it all: whether clogged up by dystopian Philip K Dick-esque nightmares or very sweet, sad post-rave after-glow introspective moods. I hope, like William Wordsworth, that my future mind “shall be a mansion for all lovely forms.”’ Am I missing something here, Ida? Whatever, I love the whole thing.

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‘The Twist’ gallery and ‘Identity’ by Guisppe Penone, 2019

One monumental and striking structure at Kistefos is ‘The Twist’ which serves as a bridge over the river and a gallery. Its design has won awards for Danish architectural firm BIG (Bjarke Ingels Group.) By the entrance, there is a strange, leafless tree-like structure. In fact, it comprises two identical trees of different shades but the roots of the lighter tree are uppermost. It is Guiseppe Penone’s ‘Identity.’ How this was made is revealed when I touch the visually convincing bark of the ‘trunk’ of the right-way-up dark tree. It is metal. I knock on it and am rewarded with a satisfying bronzey do-o-o-onnng. Each ‘tree,’ I now understand, comes from the same cast. I mean, really! How do you cast a whole tree in bronze? Bravo, Guiseppe!

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The interior of ‘The Twist’ is a stunning exhibition area. It is a place I could sit in for hours. Wisely, Kistefos has not provided comfy chairs. And…

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‘Stalk Gills and Caps of Goodbye’ (5.4m x 1.6m) by Ida Ekblad 2007

… I find a five-metre-long gorgeous but alarming splash of colour bearing the title ‘Stalk Gills and Caps of Goodbye’ by my new friend, Ida Ekblad. OK, Ida. You win. I am definitely missing something. Fab painting though!

We wander through a woody wonderland with works by Tony Cragg, Fernando Botero, Dana Schutz and many others. Down by the river, smart phones are drawn and hard at work. Then I see what the fuss is about. I am looking at the powerful site-specific work by Marc Quinn, ‘All of Nature Flows Through Us.’ Encountering it here is, quite simply, exhilarating. 

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‘All of Nature Flows Through Us’ by Marc Quinn, 2011

Marc Quinn used Christen Sveass’s iris as a model for this ten-metre-wide bronze disc that sits in the Kistefos waterfall’s outlet. It could be considered as a novel form of portraiture referring to the ever-scannable iris as a definitive identifier. Kistefos says that Quinn is ‘interested in the sense of sight’s centrality in an increasingly digitalized and visual world and in the actual eye as a potent symbolic bearer and metaphor.’ 

Erling and I stop and gape at Quinn’s work. I explain my three demands of big public sculpture before I write about it: imagination, execution and impact. ‘All of Nature Flows Through Us’ scores full marks on all counts. My barely contained excitement must be visible. ‘Wow!’ says Erling. ‘This calls for a beer.’