About Robin

Occasional painter. Golfer. Fascinated by humanity. Passionate about beautiful stuff, the people who create it and its narrative.

The Asian photography of Robert Ramser

Ramser 1I am offered a friendly welcome. Quietly and modestly, I am shown about a hundred photographs taken from neatly stacked boxes. Mesmerising images of Himalayan villages, abandoned temples, animals, people, poverty and more pass before my eyes. There is a distinct style: the pictures are crisp, delicate and enduring. It is difficult to imagine the photographer’s presence in these scenes. I feel that if I were to retrace his steps, nothing would have changed. And this is the real deal: all the black and white photographs are developed by hand from medium-format film. I am overawed by the accomplishment and overdose on photographic beautiful stuff. I have difficulty finding questions that are not banal.

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Rice fields, Yunnan, 2002

I have the privilege of meeting photographer Robert Ramser at his house in rural France. He is a calm, elegant man. The domestic atmosphere is unhurried and orderly. All around is beautiful stuff that speaks to his passion for the orient. Over Darjeeling tea, his life story unfolds. He grew up in Arles and watched the arrival there of the international photographic festival. He fell into the photographic scene, rubbing shoulders with Adams, Harbutt, Lartigue and McCullin. In 1974, the photographic neophyte moved to a small flat in Paris. A friend said he should visit the tiny Himalayan kingdom of Sikkim. He did. He returned to Paris with an idea of his future. The bathroom became a darkroom. He married Corinne, his Vietnamese neighbour.

Ramser feels at ease and indeed happy among the cultures and the people throughout Asia. He travels for up to three months at a time so immersing himself in his destination. However, photography is not necessarily the main aim; it simply serves to let him see beautiful stuff that he would not have seen, to meet extraordinary people that he would not have met and to stay longer than he would have in interesting places. He is not out to make a statement.

One of his widely exhibited series focuses on the secluded minorities of the “Forgotten hills” of the Ghizou and Yunnan provinces of south-west China.

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A Yi family, Yunnan, 2002

In keeping with his fascination for Himalayan kingdoms, another series studies the Bhutanese concept of gross national happiness.

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Tang, 2010

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Thimphu, 2009

In Mumbai, he took refuge from the Indian heat in a small museum. He discovered a series of miniature paintings illustrating the ancient Panchatantra fables from the Mogul era. In explaining the background to his on-going Creatures of the Gods series, he says “In Hindu, Jain and Buddhist philosophies, every living thing is a soul incarnated in a material body. I was inspired by the exquisite manner these artists showed the presence and the dignity of the animals…”

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Vrindavan, 2007

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Calcutta, 2007

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Pondichery, 2007

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Mahabalipuram, 2013

Ramser has an exceptional photographic eye. He rarely takes more than 13 pictures in a day; he does not need to. He is not uncomfortable with digital photography but, for him, the infinite number of photos that this technology permits and the ability to review them immediately are a distraction. Time that would be best spent observing the subject is lost by checking the little screen on the back of the camera. In his own experience, if you take many photos of a subject, the first is often the best anyway. He says the most fulfilling moments of his photographic career are those precious seconds when, on releasing the shutter, he knows he has captured a really great image.

I ask what advice he would offer to any young, aspiring photographer. Without hesitation, he replies “Stay with your own style. It is better to take a bad photograph in your own style than a good photograph in someone else’s style.” And with this pearl of wisdom delivered, he sits back and sips his tea, calmly.

“Gluttony” by Cathal O’Searcaigh

It is the heat-wave of 2013: idyllic, deepest Switzerland. After the formalities, the chilled champagne is dangerously refreshing. The Irish poet, Cathal O’Searcaigh, gets to his feet to read some of his own work that, unusually, has been translated into English. A polite silence settles over the other wedding guests. They sense something unusual is coming.

Gluttony

Gluttony (Craos) by Cathal O’Searcaigh (Translated by Denise Blake & Cathal O’Searcaigh)

I would drink the milk that spills
from the bright jugs of your laughter.
I would eat the speckled trout that swims
in the full pools of your pupils.

From the silken flour of your skin
I would bake a white batch loaf.
From the ripened fruit of your haunch
I would create a summer sweet.

I would feast in your bones, my love.
I would sate my hunger on the honeycomb
of your thighs; your chest’s sugared flesh,
your throat’s luscious apple.

Beware! The delicacies of your body
make me so ravenous.
Each bite of calf, each slice of sinew,
each mouthful of cheek, every tasty nibble

of loin, of shoulder, of plump limb.
I’d swallow you whole, I’d eat you alive.
I’d make you my dawn banquet, my dusk feast.
You’re the sweetmeat of my hunger. I drool for you.

The happy couple applauds with enthusiasm. Singles laugh but shift a little nervously in their seats. Do I see tears in the eyes of some older couples? Like a firework, this perfect and dazzling wedding moment fades abruptly. A perplexed Swiss friend asks me what “drool” means.

Perplexed in Place de Neuve: Thomas Schütte’s “Vier Grosse Geister”

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Geneva’s Place de Neuve is dominated by a majestic bronze of General Guillaume-Henri Dufour (1787-1875.) He raises a hand seemingly in a salute to the opera house. At the base of the sculpture is “A. Lanz.” Web-research reveals nothing about this master sculptor whose skills were employed by public subscription in 1884. General Dufour was a founding member of the International Committee of the Red Cross and he presided over the First Geneva Convention in 1864.  What a guy! And here’s a monument to him in the true spirit of Geneva in the very heart of Geneva!

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Fifty meters away are the gates of Parc des Bastions: home to the International Monument to the Reformation. A crane-lorry is unloading four large bronze figures. I am intrigued. I have an impression of extra-terrestrials coming to Earth with a little help from humanity. Are these other-worlders going to usurp Calvin, Knox, Beza and Farel? I give the lady in charge of the installation my Talking Beautiful Stuff card asking if a blog-post might be in order when her task is complete. She never calls. She never writes. After some days, I return to Place de Neuve. I decide to write the post anyway. But I need help here. Is this beautiful stuff?

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People play big-public-chess at the entry to the park. My first impression of the four figures now installed there is resonance with the oversized, black chess pieces. My second impression is of liquorice humanoids!

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Thomas Schütte’s 2003 Vier Grosse Geister (Four Big Spirits) is on loan to Geneva from the Bayeler Foundation. I admire Schütte’s imagination and workmanship. These rubber-looking, pointy, disconcerting, biped bronzes are powerful and intriguing. They are weighty. They are pleasant to feel and resonate gratifyingly when I tap them with my knuckles. I can’t help being drawn to them. However, despite their feet being solidly planted, their poses have no obvious meaning. Should they be in a group rather than a diverging line? Finally, they are grotesque. Schütte cannot have intended them otherwise.

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I am perplexed. It is surprising to find this work here. It draws instant attention but at the same time generates discomfort and even revulsion. A passing woman sees me taking these photos. She yells “What is this s..t?”

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In a cloud of marijuana smoke, a very relaxed man embraces one of the pieces. “I really love this guy!” he says. Well, at least somebody does! I can’t help suspecting that if General Dufour was not set on a four metre high marble plinth, he too would get a hug. And what would the good General – or Mr A. Lanz – have thought of these aliens on their patch? And what do you think?