Perplexed in Place de Neuve: Thomas Schütte’s “Vier Grosse Geister”

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Geneva’s Place de Neuve is dominated by a majestic bronze of General Guillaume-Henri Dufour (1787-1875.) He raises a hand seemingly in a salute to the opera house. At the base of the sculpture is “A. Lanz.” Web-research reveals nothing about this master sculptor whose skills were employed by public subscription in 1884. General Dufour was a founding member of the International Committee of the Red Cross and he presided over the First Geneva Convention in 1864.  What a guy! And here’s a monument to him in the true spirit of Geneva in the very heart of Geneva!

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Fifty meters away are the gates of Parc des Bastions: home to the International Monument to the Reformation. A crane-lorry is unloading four large bronze figures. I am intrigued. I have an impression of extra-terrestrials coming to Earth with a little help from humanity. Are these other-worlders going to usurp Calvin, Knox, Beza and Farel? I give the lady in charge of the installation my Talking Beautiful Stuff card asking if a blog-post might be in order when her task is complete. She never calls. She never writes. After some days, I return to Place de Neuve. I decide to write the post anyway. But I need help here. Is this beautiful stuff?

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People play big-public-chess at the entry to the park. My first impression of the four figures now installed there is resonance with the oversized, black chess pieces. My second impression is of liquorice humanoids!

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Thomas Schütte’s 2003 Vier Grosse Geister (Four Big Spirits) is on loan to Geneva from the Bayeler Foundation. I admire Schütte’s imagination and workmanship. These rubber-looking, pointy, disconcerting, biped bronzes are powerful and intriguing. They are weighty. They are pleasant to feel and resonate gratifyingly when I tap them with my knuckles. I can’t help being drawn to them. However, despite their feet being solidly planted, their poses have no obvious meaning. Should they be in a group rather than a diverging line? Finally, they are grotesque. Schütte cannot have intended them otherwise.

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I am perplexed. It is surprising to find this work here. It draws instant attention but at the same time generates discomfort and even revulsion. A passing woman sees me taking these photos. She yells “What is this s..t?”

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In a cloud of marijuana smoke, a very relaxed man embraces one of the pieces. “I really love this guy!” he says. Well, at least somebody does! I can’t help suspecting that if General Dufour was not set on a four metre high marble plinth, he too would get a hug. And what would the good General – or Mr A. Lanz – have thought of these aliens on their patch? And what do you think?

MB&F M.A.D. Gallery: watches and mechanical beauty

I have a rendez-vous at the MB&F M.A.D. Gallery in Geneva’s old town. It is easier to get there by bicycle than by any other means. It is another sweltering day. My shirt sticks to my back as I push open the plush doors. It is cool inside. Very cool!

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The cool interior!

Eléonor is responsible for the gallery’s public relations. She fits the bill. She welcomes me. I ask her about the history of this super-chic Aladdin’s cave. She opens by asking me if I am familiar with Geneva’s watch-making community. I am not expecting this. Images of glossy adverts at the airport flash through my mind. I pull at my left sleeve to hide what I wear on my wrist. Before I can muster any kind of answer, she begins the story of a think-outside-the-box watch-maker with a passion for mechanical beauty.

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Horological Machine Number 3 Megawind.

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Horological Machine Number 4.

As a child, Maximillian Büsser dreamt of fantastic mechanical things. Leaving the University of Lausanne in 1991 with a Masters Degree in Micro-Technology Engineering he found employment with Jaeger-LeCoultre. In 1998, he became Managing Director of – and transformed – Harry Winston Rare Timepieces. He set up his own company in 2005 to give full vent to his own creative energies. Even though he runs against the grain of conventional watch design, his imaginative approach has won him the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

The MB&F M.A.D. Gallery opened in 2011. It is the showcase for Maximillian Büsser’s “horological machines” and a tribute to Friends (MB&F!) who have helped him along his stellar career path. At the same time, it is a shrine to “Mechanical Art Devices” designed and made by kindred spirits all over the world.

To visit the MB&F M.A.D. Gallery is to be captivated by so much mechanical beauty. But my visit makes for a contrast of feelings. I am drawn to these objects. I want to wear one of these watches for a day. I want to handle the chrome, glass, levers, wheels, cables, nuts and bolts of the other devices. If they have switches, I want to switch them on. I would love just to sit on Chicara Nagata’s motorcycle. At the same time, the aesthetic appeal is so strong that I refrain from touching them; they are too precious. So, I simply stand and enjoy looking at them. Join me!

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This is “Type 5”: one of the “Machine Lights” by Frank Buchwald.

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The “Rhodium Birdfish” by Ulrich Teuffel is a beautifully hand-made modular electric guitar featuring two-piece aluminium body, interchangeable wooden tone bars, headless maple neck and sliding pickups.

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This penny-farthing bicycle, based on traditional designs of the 19th century, was hand-crafted by Zdenek Mesicek.

As I am leaving, Eléonor assures me she is willing to answer any questions I might have. Dare I ask, in jest, if I can take the penny-farthing for a quick tour around the narrow streets? Maybe not! Not so cool!

All photographs in this post are reproduced with thanks to MB&F M.A.D. Gallery.

Broken Chair

I cross Geneva on a hot day. I bump into a friend who asks where I am going. I tell him I am heading for Place des Nations to take photos of Broken Chair. “There’s some guy camping underneath it!” says my friend as if to discourage me.

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I find that someone has indeed set up camp under Broken Chair. Eric Grassien sits outside his tent in a wheel chair; the extent of his disability is obvious. A young lady is helping him to shave. We chat for a while. He gives me a business card and tells me he is protesting about the lack of suitable lodging for disabled people in Geneva. Around us, children lithe-of-limb scamper and scream amongst the cooling fountains that spurt out of the paving stones of this focal point of diplomatic Geneva.

Broken Chair is a powerful, unique, ambitious and intimidating work. It towers over the Place des Nations challenging the institution of the United Nations. Its installation by Handicap International in August 1997 aimed to encourage States represented at the UN Conference on Disarmament to sign the Canadian-proposed ban on antipersonnel mines. The idea was to confront diplomats with the stark fact that as long as they, the diplomats, sat in session in tranquil conference rooms undecided about how to address the global scourge of landmines, thousands of people going about their everyday business in countries such as Afghanistan and Cambodia were suffering terrible mutilations from the indiscriminate use of these weapons. Broken Chair came to symbolise the slow workings of the international community in the face of an urgent global problem. As a result, it has drawn criticism from members of the diplomatic community in Geneva.

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Daniel Berset was the creative mind behind this project. He has often made use of the theme of chairs in quirky, impactful and monumental sculptures. The power of Broken Chair rests not only in its size and the location. The broken leg is convincingly broken! It does not look like a broken piece of wood nor even a broken leg sustained in a road accident. Berset has successfully used the wood of the leg of an outsized chair to evoke the brutal mutilation of a human leg that can only be produced by explosive force. As Roger Bunting shows us with his landmine medal, beautiful stuff can be about ugly stuff.

But the story of Broken Chair and its impact did not end with achieving the 1997 Ottawa Treaty. A decade after “Ottawa,” a weathered Broken Chair had an overhaul as a follow-on appeal to diplomats about the 2007 Oslo Treaty banning cluster bombs. But… wait! There’s more! The plight of the hundreds of thousands of landmine survivors which came to light in the run-up to the Ottawa Treaty provided a major impetus for yet another treaty, also agreed to in Geneva: the 2007 Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disabilities. Even though Eric Grassien’s disability was not inflicted by a weapon, the symbolism of his protest is complete and the rights underpinning his cause have a global provenance. His little camp under Broken Chair resonates with the diplomatic history of Geneva.

Those close to disarmament issues say the Ottawa Treaty brought about a sea-change in how the world’s powerful governments view disarmament, weapons and the disabilities caused by weapons. We will never know to what extent Broken Chair played a role but it deserves its place as one of Geneva’s most famous landmarks.

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I head back into central Geneva after my visit to the Place des Nations. Crossing Parc des Bastillons I pass in front of the International Monument to the Reformation: Geneva’s other iconic statue. The earnest faces of John Knox, John Calvin and William Farel and Theodore Beza stare back at me. (I feel they are accusing me of something!) I wonder if these stern men ever thought that nearly 500 years later, Geneva would still be a place of meetings that change the thoughts of and dialogue between nations.