Broken Chair

I cross Geneva on a hot day. I bump into a friend who asks where I am going. I tell him I am heading for Place des Nations to take photos of Broken Chair. “There’s some guy camping underneath it!” says my friend as if to discourage me.

Broken Chair 1

I find that someone has indeed set up camp under Broken Chair. Eric Grassien sits outside his tent in a wheel chair; the extent of his disability is obvious. A young lady is helping him to shave. We chat for a while. He gives me a business card and tells me he is protesting about the lack of suitable lodging for disabled people in Geneva. Around us, children lithe-of-limb scamper and scream amongst the cooling fountains that spurt out of the paving stones of this focal point of diplomatic Geneva.

Broken Chair is a powerful, unique, ambitious and intimidating work. It towers over the Place des Nations challenging the institution of the United Nations. Its installation by Handicap International in August 1997 aimed to encourage States represented at the UN Conference on Disarmament to sign the Canadian-proposed ban on antipersonnel mines. The idea was to confront diplomats with the stark fact that as long as they, the diplomats, sat in session in tranquil conference rooms undecided about how to address the global scourge of landmines, thousands of people going about their everyday business in countries such as Afghanistan and Cambodia were suffering terrible mutilations from the indiscriminate use of these weapons. Broken Chair came to symbolise the slow workings of the international community in the face of an urgent global problem. As a result, it has drawn criticism from members of the diplomatic community in Geneva.

Broken Chair 2

Daniel Berset was the creative mind behind this project. He has often made use of the theme of chairs in quirky, impactful and monumental sculptures. The power of Broken Chair rests not only in its size and the location. The broken leg is convincingly broken! It does not look like a broken piece of wood nor even a broken leg sustained in a road accident. Berset has successfully used the wood of the leg of an outsized chair to evoke the brutal mutilation of a human leg that can only be produced by explosive force. As Roger Bunting shows us with his landmine medal, beautiful stuff can be about ugly stuff.

But the story of Broken Chair and its impact did not end with achieving the 1997 Ottawa Treaty. A decade after “Ottawa,” a weathered Broken Chair had an overhaul as a follow-on appeal to diplomats about the 2007 Oslo Treaty banning cluster bombs. But… wait! There’s more! The plight of the hundreds of thousands of landmine survivors which came to light in the run-up to the Ottawa Treaty provided a major impetus for yet another treaty, also agreed to in Geneva: the 2007 Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disabilities. Even though Eric Grassien’s disability was not inflicted by a weapon, the symbolism of his protest is complete and the rights underpinning his cause have a global provenance. His little camp under Broken Chair resonates with the diplomatic history of Geneva.

Those close to disarmament issues say the Ottawa Treaty brought about a sea-change in how the world’s powerful governments view disarmament, weapons and the disabilities caused by weapons. We will never know to what extent Broken Chair played a role but it deserves its place as one of Geneva’s most famous landmarks.

Broken Chair 3

I head back into central Geneva after my visit to the Place des Nations. Crossing Parc des Bastillons I pass in front of the International Monument to the Reformation: Geneva’s other iconic statue. The earnest faces of John Knox, John Calvin and William Farel and Theodore Beza stare back at me. (I feel they are accusing me of something!) I wonder if these stern men ever thought that nearly 500 years later, Geneva would still be a place of meetings that change the thoughts of and dialogue between nations.

Square peg Frankfurt

This is a guest post by Angela Onikepe.

So let’s talk about beauty. What is it? Straight lines? Symmetry? Perfectly round circles? Something that matches the societal standard of beauty?

I think beauty is more a case of square pegs. The fact that square pegs never fit into round holes (as the saying goes) or any other shape for that matter, is what makes them beautiful. Square pegs give us the image of messiness, disorder and chaos but that’s the fun of it. The same can be said for life and what is all around us.

Take the city of Frankfurt for instance. It’s the financial capital of Germany and although it is quite well known, it does not necessarily get the same courtesy as some of its sister cities. Berlin is always described as “dynamic”, “cosmopolitan” and “exciting”. Munich gets even better treatment since it’s known as being the most “beautiful” and “green” German city. Dresden is known as the “Florence at the Elbe.” How can you beat being Florence?

Call me superficial but the term “financial center” does not exactly make you daydream or think of a city with personality. It certainly does not make you want to go and immediately buy a ticket to see what it’s all about. Being known as the “financial center” does not elicit thoughts of idyllic settings and relaxation (okay, maybe some of you are more imaginative than I am).

Even so, on a recent visit, I found Frankfurt to be full of square pegs; I had the sensation of slowly unwrapping a present with each peek getting better and better. It was an explosion and fusion of shapes; all sorts of mixtures of lines, patterns and styles that made me positively giddy. Circles mashed in with squares and squiggly lines; spirals twirling around with straight lines and odd-shaped holes. The combination of the old and the new, which to some might seem messy (read → ugly), was seamless.

Frankfurt 1

Downtown Frankfurt, the Nextower building.

Frankfurt 2

The Römerberg is the centre of the Altstadt (the old town).

Frankfurt 3

Love padlocks. Couples come to the Eiserner Steg Bridge to profess their everlasting love by fastening locks with their names onto the bridge.

Frankfurt 4

Downtown Frankfurt.

There was a whimsical feeling to the city, almost as if it was reminding me of what it means to be human – a disastrous but yet fascinating mix of all kinds of things. Now, that’s my kind of beauty in an idyllic setting, a place that reminds me not to take myself too seriously; there’s nothing more beautiful or freeing than that.

*Folks, thanks for coming along with me on the ride; I would also like to thank head-honcho Talkers, Isaac and Robin, for allowing me to play in their world. That’s beautiful too.*

Take a minute in Scourie

The village of Scourie is just about as far north as one can go in Scotland. It is set in an area of majestic natural beauty. It is best known for the Scourie Hotel that, for decades, has been a fisherman’s mecca. An aerial view gives an idea of just how small the village is.

Scourie 1

Photo thanks to the Sutherland Partnership

So what is there of interest to Talking Beautiful Stuff? Inevitability and sadly, it is the war memorial. Fifteen men from Scourie died in World War I and nine in World War II. It is difficult to imagine the grief felt by this tiny community.

As I try to find the best angle to photograph the beautiful, poignant sculpture, a German couple in a campervan stop to consult a map; a Land Rover full of determined tweed roars off for a day on the Dionard River; the BT engineer drives past and waves a cheery hello. This is Scourie nearly one hundred years later. Nevertheless, the memorial has an abiding and tranquil presence in the village.

Scourie 2

I find myself drawn to this memorial statue more than others for the words that it evokes. Calm. Dignity. Respect. The authenticity of the Lee Enfield rifle pleases me as does the way it is held. I look closely at the marble face; it is almost alive. There are other words. Youth. Innocence. Family. Loss.

Scourie 3

I look around for the name of the master sculptor who can capture all this in marble. There is neither inscription nor discrete little plaque. Later, an internet search reveals nothing more. This exquisite and delicate work is anonymous.

Like Garth, our guest blogger, who visited the Memorial to the Confederate Soldier in New Orleans, I feel moved by the humanity and sensitivity of such enduring tributes to the dead of conflicts that have changed the world. If ever you are in Scourie, find this memorial. Let the soldier’s face take a minute of your day. Be moved.

The memorial is set back from the road, opposite the Greenhill B&B.