Perplexed in Place de Neuve: Thomas Schütte’s “Vier Grosse Geister”

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Geneva’s Place de Neuve is dominated by a majestic bronze of General Guillaume-Henri Dufour (1787-1875.) He raises a hand seemingly in a salute to the opera house. At the base of the sculpture is “A. Lanz.” Web-research reveals nothing about this master sculptor whose skills were employed by public subscription in 1884. General Dufour was a founding member of the International Committee of the Red Cross and he presided over the First Geneva Convention in 1864.  What a guy! And here’s a monument to him in the true spirit of Geneva in the very heart of Geneva!

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Fifty meters away are the gates of Parc des Bastions: home to the International Monument to the Reformation. A crane-lorry is unloading four large bronze figures. I am intrigued. I have an impression of extra-terrestrials coming to Earth with a little help from humanity. Are these other-worlders going to usurp Calvin, Knox, Beza and Farel? I give the lady in charge of the installation my Talking Beautiful Stuff card asking if a blog-post might be in order when her task is complete. She never calls. She never writes. After some days, I return to Place de Neuve. I decide to write the post anyway. But I need help here. Is this beautiful stuff?

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People play big-public-chess at the entry to the park. My first impression of the four figures now installed there is resonance with the oversized, black chess pieces. My second impression is of liquorice humanoids!

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Thomas Schütte’s 2003 Vier Grosse Geister (Four Big Spirits) is on loan to Geneva from the Bayeler Foundation. I admire Schütte’s imagination and workmanship. These rubber-looking, pointy, disconcerting, biped bronzes are powerful and intriguing. They are weighty. They are pleasant to feel and resonate gratifyingly when I tap them with my knuckles. I can’t help being drawn to them. However, despite their feet being solidly planted, their poses have no obvious meaning. Should they be in a group rather than a diverging line? Finally, they are grotesque. Schütte cannot have intended them otherwise.

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I am perplexed. It is surprising to find this work here. It draws instant attention but at the same time generates discomfort and even revulsion. A passing woman sees me taking these photos. She yells “What is this s..t?”

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In a cloud of marijuana smoke, a very relaxed man embraces one of the pieces. “I really love this guy!” he says. Well, at least somebody does! I can’t help suspecting that if General Dufour was not set on a four metre high marble plinth, he too would get a hug. And what would the good General – or Mr A. Lanz – have thought of these aliens on their patch? And what do you think?

Broken Chair

I cross Geneva on a hot day. I bump into a friend who asks where I am going. I tell him I am heading for Place des Nations to take photos of Broken Chair. “There’s some guy camping underneath it!” says my friend as if to discourage me.

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I find that someone has indeed set up camp under Broken Chair. Eric Grassien sits outside his tent in a wheel chair; the extent of his disability is obvious. A young lady is helping him to shave. We chat for a while. He gives me a business card and tells me he is protesting about the lack of suitable lodging for disabled people in Geneva. Around us, children lithe-of-limb scamper and scream amongst the cooling fountains that spurt out of the paving stones of this focal point of diplomatic Geneva.

Broken Chair is a powerful, unique, ambitious and intimidating work. It towers over the Place des Nations challenging the institution of the United Nations. Its installation by Handicap International in August 1997 aimed to encourage States represented at the UN Conference on Disarmament to sign the Canadian-proposed ban on antipersonnel mines. The idea was to confront diplomats with the stark fact that as long as they, the diplomats, sat in session in tranquil conference rooms undecided about how to address the global scourge of landmines, thousands of people going about their everyday business in countries such as Afghanistan and Cambodia were suffering terrible mutilations from the indiscriminate use of these weapons. Broken Chair came to symbolise the slow workings of the international community in the face of an urgent global problem. As a result, it has drawn criticism from members of the diplomatic community in Geneva.

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Daniel Berset was the creative mind behind this project. He has often made use of the theme of chairs in quirky, impactful and monumental sculptures. The power of Broken Chair rests not only in its size and the location. The broken leg is convincingly broken! It does not look like a broken piece of wood nor even a broken leg sustained in a road accident. Berset has successfully used the wood of the leg of an outsized chair to evoke the brutal mutilation of a human leg that can only be produced by explosive force. As Roger Bunting shows us with his landmine medal, beautiful stuff can be about ugly stuff.

But the story of Broken Chair and its impact did not end with achieving the 1997 Ottawa Treaty. A decade after “Ottawa,” a weathered Broken Chair had an overhaul as a follow-on appeal to diplomats about the 2007 Oslo Treaty banning cluster bombs. But… wait! There’s more! The plight of the hundreds of thousands of landmine survivors which came to light in the run-up to the Ottawa Treaty provided a major impetus for yet another treaty, also agreed to in Geneva: the 2007 Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disabilities. Even though Eric Grassien’s disability was not inflicted by a weapon, the symbolism of his protest is complete and the rights underpinning his cause have a global provenance. His little camp under Broken Chair resonates with the diplomatic history of Geneva.

Those close to disarmament issues say the Ottawa Treaty brought about a sea-change in how the world’s powerful governments view disarmament, weapons and the disabilities caused by weapons. We will never know to what extent Broken Chair played a role but it deserves its place as one of Geneva’s most famous landmarks.

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I head back into central Geneva after my visit to the Place des Nations. Crossing Parc des Bastillons I pass in front of the International Monument to the Reformation: Geneva’s other iconic statue. The earnest faces of John Knox, John Calvin and William Farel and Theodore Beza stare back at me. (I feel they are accusing me of something!) I wonder if these stern men ever thought that nearly 500 years later, Geneva would still be a place of meetings that change the thoughts of and dialogue between nations.

The wild ceramic wonderworld of Lotte Glob

I drive the desolate north coast of Scotland. The first hint that the single-track road around Loch Eriboll is taking me to an intriguing destination is the sight of Lotte Glob’s house.

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I park and, buffeted by the wind, walk through a pair of fantasy wrought-iron gates adorned with blue ceramics. I then realise that the impressive structure viewed from the road is only Lotte’s personal sanctuary in a wild ceramic wonderworld that comprises her studio and the fourteen acres of hillside dedicated to her mesmerising beautiful stuff.

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Lotte Glob is an internationally acclaimed ceramacist. She does not care whether she is perceived as living at the end of the world. Her world is about the beginning of things. It is a tribute to the molten source of the granites, gneisses and schists upon which she has chosen to live and work. Earth, rocks and fire are, unsurprisingly, her media and her inspiration. Using temperatures of over 1300 degrees C she fuses clay and rock. I run my hand over one of her famous rock books. The Big Book? Genesis? I expect to feel heat from the pages.

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Lotte manages to couple a beginning-of-the-world feel with a wild imagination. In her wonderworld, there are ceramic surprises everywhere. I find pouting bipeds on a hilltop. Hidden in the undergrowth are goblin-like wee beasties a-singing. (Their song amuses them greatly!) Lapiz blues and vibrant torquoises startle at every turn.

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Her creative process also involves leaving something to this geologically ancient environment. Behind her stylish studio is a small pond in which ceramic spheroids bob against each other with a gratifying chinking noise. These belong to Lotte’s “floating rocks” project. She has left 333 such “rocks” in 111 small remote lochans in the area. She doesn’t know what happens to them. It is her way of giving back to this rugged, rocky place.

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Writing for Talking Beautiful Stuff gives me the privilege of meeting extraordinary creative people. As always, the “Who?” behind this beautiful stuff is fascinating? Lotte Glob is Danish. She has spent a large part of her adult life in Scotland single-mindedly pursuing her passion. Her handshake tells a story of the outdoors and a hard manual dexterity. “From the age of eight, I was always in the forests collecting things likes animal skulls, twigs, stones and feathers and arranging them into neat little piles” she tells me. “Pottery was the only thing I was good at in school! Now, when I work, I forget I exist.” She admits to other inspirations: Bach, The Little Prince and walking.

Whilst accolades for her ceramics bring a passing flicker of satisfaction, her steely blue eyes beam the calm of someone whose work and existence are in total harmony. She can afford to be and is generous with her time, with her space and with her thoughts.

In case you are wondering, Lotte also makes plates. They too are beautiful.

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O frabjous day!